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Summer Pruning Apple Fruit Trees - Cordons, Fans and Espaliers By Gino Hitshopi

Generally, it is best to prune fruit trees in winter, when they are dormant. This is certainly true of all the apple trees that you normally find in an orchard. As with all rules of gardening, however, there are exceptions. Restricted, son trained apple shapes, such as fans, cords and trellises need special treatment (the same for pears).

Unlike normal fruit trees, where you want them to grow large and beautiful, the whole point of a restricted form, it is still in its limited space. Summer pruning is an effective way to make this possible. In autumn, when a plant deciduous settled for the winter and begins to lose its leaves, it sends most of its nutrient-rich sap in its roots in a safe place. For the size of some new shoots in late summer, you are removing part of its "start-up fuel for the spring. Done correctly, this has the effect of curbing the growth of the tree without harming it at all. It is also good for fruit that are on the branches this year, because it allows more sunlight to reach and improves air circulation.

Note that you do not carry any size formative old wood so to remove only the soft new growth.

Choosing the right time to prune your trees Summer Apple needs a little attention. Typically, the second and third weeks of August are the best in the south and the end of August in the North (pears are made earlier). The most important thing to keep an eye on the basis of new shoots: they must be rigid and woody bark that forms on their bases along the first third of their length. When you embark on the size is what you should consider:

• Select all the lateral branches (those that come directly from the main stem) that are longer than 20cms. Cut them back to just above the third set of leaves above the base (where there is usually a cluster or rosette of leaves).

• Leave the side shoots that have less than 20cms alone.

• Sub-laterals are side shoots that develop on the lateral side shoots. Cut these back to just above a group of leaves above their base.

• Look out for side-shoots that grow strongly and vertically. They are trying to become the new star of the stem and, unless you want your bead to grow longer, they need to be removed entirely, because they divert energy form the branches where you want the fruit shape.

• Check if your plants / fruit trees as winter ends in late September, pinching off any new growth that has sprouted since you cut.

You may find that whatever you do, there are a lot of new growth after pruning - some varieties of apples are like that. To avoid this, here's a tip - choose two or three of the longest side laterals and do not prune at all until spring (when they should be reduced to a bud above the base).

Add this to divert energy away from the new growth around your cup.
As always, use pruning shears, Sharp and clean, if you make more of an apple, disinfected between each fruit trees. It is safer to burn, bury or dump the cuttings is to compost them, to reduce the risk of spreading diseases dormant.

Gino Hitshopi is very experienced in the field of fruit trees, especially apples, having worked with them for many years. For more information please visit: http://www.ashridgetrees.co.uk/SHOPPING-CATEGORIES/Apple-Trees-Fruit-Trees

Tips For Growing Apple Trees By Colin D Price

Growing your own apple tree is very satisfying and rewarding experience. Who has not at one time or another wanted to roam the backyard and pick up a crisp, juicy apple of his own apple tree. And one big benefit is that you can choose what to grow, has a wide range to choose from for all tastes. There is no need for you to be limited by the trend established by commercial growers and supermarkets.

Manzanos as at least 6 hours of sun during the summer, but bear in mind that they need a spell in the inactive, where the winter temperature is in the range of 32 º F-45 º F. These cooling requirements will encourage growth in the normal growing season. The northern hemisphere is where the trees grow, they grow best in cool to cold climates with a mild summer and cold winter. You will find that it is a standard procedure for garden centers to follow the guidelines set by the United States Department of Agriculture, to tag their trees, giving the most suitable areas where the plants are sold successfully.

Due to the space taken by trees, it is necessary to plan carefully before making a decision, and to remember that there are a number of years, there are recordings of some of them 200 years old. From the time of planting can take up to 10 years for the tree reaches its full potential. Apple trees are deciduous fruit, which means they lose their leaves in winter, so it can be used in a shady position in summer or winter sun in the garden is necessary. Land preparation and the position is critical to reap the fruits of an apple tree will. They are very tolerant, where soil conditions are concerned, however if you prepare in advance a plot that has good drainage, along with a decent type of clay soil and a pH reading of 6.5, provided the conditions ideal for a good supply of apples and a healthy tree.

Manzanos consist of two parts: the stem and the pattern that are grafted into the tree. The stem is the part that forms the upper branches, leaves, flowers and fruits, while the pattern determines the size of the tree and its resistance to drought, pests and diseases. Trees may be stunted, growing 8-10 feet, semi-dwarf or standard 10-15ft trees that grow 20 feet but the fruit produced by trees can all be the same size.

Most varieties of apple are so self-sterile varieties, with the overlap in flowering times, are necessary for pollination. I recommend buying young stock from a nursery (growing from seed is possible but takes time), in which your provider will help you with your choices. The transfer of pollen from one tree to another is done mainly by bees to try to encourage these insects in your garden and refrain from using insecticides during the period that is activated.

November is the ideal time to plant, but you can plant as late as March. Manzanos are usually sold bare rooted and in choosing the variety you want, make sure they look healthy. Check the roots to make sure they are nice and wet, then keep them that way and the plants as soon as possible.

Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and then place the tree in the hole to spread the roots so that they are not trapped. Refilling soil pressing firmly to ensure the roots stay in contact with the ground. Make sure that the graft remains well above ground level. You can support the tree with great interest at this time (until it is established) and then give a glass of water after bedding them in. A layer of mulch placed around the tree to help retain moisture and suppress weeds . To protect the abnormal temperatures in winter, mulch the top to raise the young tree with old sacks or isolate this period, only cold.

When the tree begins to bear fruit, remove the apples from the tree by holding the strong commitment of the power and torque of apples gently until it comes out. They are best eaten from the tree for optimal taste, but if you're intent is to store apples, leaving stems attached, which helps preserve and maintain a well-ventilated, cool, dark, damp place. You will often find that a large part of the mature fruit, but overall a way to avoid this is to take over the apple fruit at different times, provided that no period of overlap when it is flowering for help to pollination.

It's worth learning how to prune the trees to be in the correct form to allow growth. If you are interested in increasing their own actions, then you may wish to consider grafting but may have certain skills or experience to attempt this.

Colin Price has been gardening for many years. Now you can leverage your knowledge and success and create your own beautiful and productive garden, taking a look at => http://www.equipyourgarden.com